Welcome to the home page of my YouTube account. This is where I will be posting links, files, or anything else related to my YouTube channel. In case you got here through my local work and not YouTube, please check it out and subscribe if you like what you see.
Click the image to download your very own turntable strobe disc to print at home!
Tascam 388 stuff:
Every scan of the repair manual that is available online sucks. I got an original owners manual and scanned the schematics. My scans aren’t perfect, but they are a million times better than anything else I could find online. Here is a zip file…
You’re welcome. ;)
GE C-430A, C-431A clock radio stuff:
Here is a jpg of the circuit board that came in MY radio. I have seen photos of other versions of this board, so there is no guarantee that your radio’s board will look exactly like this one. I don’t know if mine was a later revision or a first try, but I wanted to try to replicate the one with which it came. Feel free to download this to replicate the board in your radio or as a basis to make your own AA5 radio from scratch. If you use my image to reproduce and sell boards, I will find you, and I will
kill you write a strongly-worded letter.
My board measured a hair over 3″ x 9″, so I don’t know if they were shooting for 3×9 and overshot it, or if they meant for it to be 3.05 x 9.05, but it is what it is.
Do not ask me for schematics or repair manuals for this radio. I obtained my copies here:
and you are free to do the same. Radio Museum does not want people to download things and share them with others, but anyone can use their service if they follow the rules.
If you have a different board that you want to copy, here is the process I went through with this one:
1. Remove the board and remove all components.
2. Try to get a clear image of the board’s traces with a high contrast. (I had to sand off the green solder mask to reveal the copper traces.) I used a scanning app on my iPhone to capture the image, but a regular camera or flatbed scanner would also work.
3. Using an image editing program such as Photoshop or Gimp, use the “threshold” feature to turn your full-color image into a black and white image.
4. Resize as necessary. Depending on the method of capturing the image, it may be stretched in one or both directions or skewed. (My scanning app automatically un-skews the image.) Be VERY precise, like down to .005″. If your stencil is the wrong size, components like tube sockets might not line up properly.
5. Rotate/flip/reverse colors as necessary to give you a clear black and white, mirror image.
6. Spend a million hours zoomed in to the image, fixing any errors caused by board damage, poor image capturing, etc. You should have no colors or grays when zoomed in to the pixel level- just black and white.
7. Print it out. When you set the original board on top of the print out, the holes should line up. If they don’t, you messed something up. Figure it out and fix it.
8. Etch. I won’t explain this step because there are many ways to do it. I will be using the laser printer and photo paper method, but your options will vary based on the equipment you have.
Tester/Greenlee Bandsaw Stuff:
The guide bearings I removed had metal shields, which were trade number 1607-2Z, but I upgraded to ones with rubber shields to better keep out metal chips, which are 1607-2RS. To order, just google the part number or ask your local supplier. They are a very common size.
I’ve gotten some requests for an image of the label inside the idler wheel cover, since some machines are missing it. Here is a complete image of mine, as well as two close-ups that may be easier to read: